Gargoyle Geckos 102 - more details
Quick and dirty summary on gargoyle gecko care
This is written by me based on years of experience working with 100+geckos and other reptiles and is in line with generally accepted care. This is how I keep my geckos without any issues. However it does not cover extreme cases, not advice specific to your unique situation, and probably there is a non zero number of people who may believe this is in part or entirely false and will vocally disagree. As with any animals/topic you may need to do additional research on your own
Enclosure: under 3 months or 7g plastic container with a mesh top shoebox size or slightly larger is ok. Once geckos get older they need more space, especially vertical for climbing. 10gal tank which is $15-$30 at the pet store is the absolute minimum for an adult but larger is significantly better and not much more expensive. $100 will get you a good one, used can go for about $50 but require extensive cleaning. Custom made redwood/mahogany enclosures with automated misting and integrated sensors are the most expensive option, but ultimately geckos don’t care about top of the line features
Fill the enclosure of your choice with bedding, hides, branches, leaves. The more the better, your gecko will be happier. Bonus points if the setup looks nice in your room and when you show it off on Instagram. A separate guide on enclosures and how to fill them is coming soon!
Temperature is fine if its room temperature, ideally between 68°F and 86°F (20°C and 30°C) subjectively they’re the happiest at 80°F or 27°C. They can take cold temperature pretty well, but overheating is an issue - above 90°F you need to increase misting and start worrying. To heat up the best way is a thermostat with a heat mat or two that covers 70% of the enclosure to create a hot and a cold zone. Heat lamps are a bonus but not necessary. To cool you will need to mist and turn on AC in the room with the enclosure.
Lighting is an aesthetic add on because they’re mostly active at night and is not necessary. UV lamps are also not needed
Misting needs to be done at least once per day in the evening. At night they’re the most active and the will drink the water off of leaves and walls of the enclosure. During the day the enclosure should fully dry out. Water bowl is optional but will allow your gecko to drink more often and for you to occasionally skip misting. Automated misting setup is an inexpensive option that makes life easier by reducing the minimum required maintenance from daily to 2 times per week
Feeding should be done every 2-3 days, 1 to 3 bottle caps of food depending on the age and size of the gecko. Place the feeding bowls inside enclosure for 2 nights, then remove. 1 bag of mix is about $20 and lasts 1-2 months. You should closely monitor how much your gecko eats. Yes they have a preference to consistency of the mix, brand, flavor, and feeding bowl placement. Mood changes also happen so sometimes they will not eat or eat not as much, that’s ok. Holding your gecko in one hand and a feeding bowl in another and watching them adorably lick it is a great way to bond and a fantastic experience, but doing it too often will make them lazy and the wont eat as much on their own. A separate guide on feeding your gecko is coming soon!
Cleaning should be done regularly, depending on the enclosure size 1-2 times per week. Most of the mess (and all of the smell) will be coming from spilled food. They’re messy eaters, but luckily they don’t eat their own poop. Leaving it with old food in the enclosure can lead to mold, mites etc and is not the healthiest. Paper towels as a bedding make it easy to monitor cleanliness and how well your gecko eats and poops. A bioactive setup pretty much eliminates the need to clean the enclosure but more complicated and expensive to set up.
Handling your gecko is something that really depends on your gecko. At first geckos should be picked up gently from below, moved around slowly and without loud sudden noises- later they get used to all of that and will climb onto your hand voluntarily. Best way to handle is by giving them a hand or a finger to climb on. They overheat fairly quickly if you hold them in your hands and the outside world is big and scary if you’re a little gecko! So aim for 10-20 minutes max of interaction per day, slowly increasing it as the gecko gets comfortable. If gecko shows signs of stress or aggression - try to calm them and then put them back in the enclosure. When scared geckos can bite - not too painfully and its hard for them to pierce human skin. Its rare and in most cases they try to run away.
Comfortable in their environment geckos don’t mind spending a lot of time outside of the enclosure, exploring whatever surface you put them on, watching you, other pets or the tv. This makes socialized gargoyles great pets, but such level of comfort will take effort and a good amount of time to achieve. At first most geckos will be ok with being picked up, but nervous in any unfamiliar situation/environment, afraid of loud noises and strong smells and will not tolerate any of that for an extended period of time. Slowly as you work on their trust their tolerance to unfamiliar will grow, your hands will become a safe area for your gecko and you can further expand their zone of comfort. When uncomfortable the gecko will notify you by relieving themselves on you and trying to jump their way to escape into the furthest darkest corner of the room. A separate guide on taming / living with your gecko is coming soon!
